Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
